The shoulder pleat is actually quite interesting. The first fold over meets at a mark, and is stitched down, but then there is a good inch that is folded under at the sleeve seam again then left open. Why both are there I dont know. I didn't pay that much attention to the first one I made, and perhaps the drape would be a fit different if the fabric were not as stiff.

The original of this pattern was missing its sleeve, so I used a sleeve from a 30s blouse pattern I had. I also had to do a lot of refashioning of the arm holes for it to look proper.